This low cost plastic is widely applied for the production of packing material, barrels, pipes, toys, and many other things because of its good chemical stability, impact strength, and easy processability.

As with many molding technologies, the type of plastic material used considerably impacts the overall value of the final product in injection molding. However, there are several generic low cost plastic materials available with a wide spectrum of properties and functions suitable for different applications across different sectors. Read more: Plastic injection molding cost

To make a box for the mold, take measurements of the length and width of the part in the clay. Add 1 inch to the measurement. This will give a 0.5-inch border all the way around. Cut a strip of foam board to a desired thickness; this thickness should be at least two times the height of the part that is sticking out of the clay, but not too tall. The foam board strip should be marked to the measurements of the border needed. Alternate the measurements, i.e., 3-in, then 4.5-in, then 3-in and again 4.5-in. At these marks, score one side of the foam board. This score or cut should not go all the way through the board. This will allow for the board to be folded at these marks. Tape the ends together to form a four-sided box.

The item can be anything from an already existing plastic part, to a piece of foam that was carved and shaped to make a custom piece for cosplay (or even a 3D printed part you would like to make more of). Whatever the origin of the item, they are all prepared the same way. The first step is to get a chunk of clay prepared; this chunk of clay should be a little bigger than the item to be molded while maintaining about 0.5 inch thickness. Starting with more clay than needed is better than not enough. The clay should be kneaded in order to prevent any imperfections in the clay surface. Kneading also warms the clay up, making it easier to manipulate. Once the kneading is done, roll the clay into a ball. Place the ball of clay on a smooth, clean surface and use the rolling pin to flatten. The clay should not be attempted to be flattened all at once; it should be done little by little. Each time the rolling pin is used, the clay should be flipped over and rotated about ¼ a turn for a more even distribution. When the clay is getting close to the desired thickness, use some popsicle sticks stacked up on each side of the clay to allow the rolling pin to give a perfectly smooth and level surface.

Polycarbonate is another low cost plastic used in injection molding. Thanks to its highly transparent, very resistant to impacts, and dimensionally stable, this material has found use in areas related to lenses, shields,... This low cost plastic’s high-temperature endurance and nonflammability add to the application versatility of the material.

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With a complete part, there will be flash (excess material at the seams of the mold), part lines, sprues and air holes all over the part. The sprues and air holes can be cut or carefully broken away. There will be a mark where these were connected to the part, they can be smoothed away by light sanding. The flash can be cut away with a razor blade and also sanded down smooth. Once the part is cleaned enough, there is the replica or final part. Some items or parts may require some slight deviation from the steps mentioned here, but all items should be able to be formed under the same principles.

Place the pancake-like clay onto a piece of chipboard. Place the item to be molded into the middle of the clay. The part may need to be slightly recessed into the clay; if so, remove some clay from the middle to allow this to happen. Other parts like the one seen here can simply sit on the surface of the clay. Once the part is positioned, smooth the clay up to the edge of the part, making a seal with the clay and part. This will prevent any silicone from getting underneath the part. Take a small tipped item, such as the back end of a small paint brush or dull pencil, to make small key holes close to the part. Repeat this with a larger diameter object around and outside of the smaller key holes. These key holes allow for the two halves of the mold to line up properly and not slide or move during the curing process of the part.

Now that the silicone has dried, remove the clay that is securing the box to the chipboard. Flip the box over — it may resist a bit due to the clay sticking to the chipboard — and carefully remove the clay that was once the bottom. Be careful not to remove or disturb the part while removing the clay. Clean any clay off the part that may have been left behind without moving the part. If a sprue and air holes were not set up on the first pour, this is the time to do so on this side.

Now that the item is fully prepared, estimate or measure how much volume will be needed for the first half of the pour. Be sure the make the pour at least half inch thick from the tallest point of the part but careful not to cover the top of the sprue or air holes, if they are covered completely by the silicone, the holes can be cut open after this half of the mold is fully dry. Mix the proper amount of silicone material (here we mixed a 1:1, meaning half of the volume is part A and the other half is part B) and ensure it is mixed thoroughly. Pour a small amount of the silicone onto the part, just enough to cover the part, and then take a small brush and “paint” the silicon onto the part. This should remove any bubbles on the surface of the part. Resume pouring the silicone into the box. If poured from a distance, the silicon makes a thin stream, forcing any large bubbles to be removed. Allow for the silicone to sit and dry for the required time (indicated on the container of the material purchased).

Place the two halves of the mold together matching up the keys that were made into the mold halves. Secure with one or more rubber bands, being sure not to over-tighten the bands. The two halves should simply be held together; do not squeeze or deform the mold. Place the side with the sprue and air holes face up. Based on the part that was molded, estimate or measure the amount of plastic resin needed to be mixed (here is a 1:1 mix ratio resin). If specific color is required, add coloring to the mix. Slowly pour the mix into the sprue. Slow pour is necessary to allow time for air to escape the mold.

Polypropylene is a low cost plastic material that can be effectively used in injection mold processes. Its properties have mechanical, thermal, and chemical applications which makes it ideal for a broad range of products. Polypropylene injection molding is widely utilized to manufacture household products, automotive components, and packaging elements.

One of the most common manufacturing processes is injection molding, in which the material, typically polymer, under high pressure, is injected into a mold before it solidifies to the shape of the mold. This process is particularly appreciated for its precision but also for its quickness because It has the capability to produce outstanding shapes and patterns. This process is widely used across such industries as automotive, electronics, home appliances, packaging, and consumer goods industries.

Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS) is one of the low cost plastics on the market. One of the properties of ABS is its ease of molding and its toughness and therefore it is frequently utilized in the injection molding processes. Injection molding products made from this low cost plastic include application enclosures, household items, and automobile components.

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With the box secure, smooth the clay to the inside of the box, as was done with smoothing the clay to the part, preventing any silicone from getting between the clay and the box. Depending on the orientation and design of the item, it may be ideal to add a sprue (pouring spout) and air holes (to allow the air in the mold to escape) now or on the other side of the item. The side that these are best on is decided by the user. Keep in mind, the spot that these are placed will have a mark and need to be cleaned up or sanded for removal. To make the sprue, take a conical item (here a dull end of a pencil is used) and glue to the location where the plastic resin will enter the part. Air holes are placed anywhere. There is concern of a bubble forming that would prevent the plastic resin from flowing into place. The air holes can be anything from toothpicks to wire to coffee straws. These are also glued into the desired locations. Wait for the glue to dry before proceeding.

Use a mold release to coat the exposed silicone. This prevents the new pour of silicone from merging with the current pour. Here, a liquid mold release is used. If any of the mold release gets on the part, gently wipe or clean it off. Multiple coats of mold release may be used.

Being one of the key suppliers of plastics to clients, EuroPlas takes pride in delivering a range of plastics products that have high quality, meet the new and changing needs of the markets. If you are sourcing for low cost plastic that could be used in injection molding, then EuroPlas is a station that you can consult.

Do you ever need spare plastic parts, or need to replace a broken or worn part, such as a plastic cap or a door bell switch? Do you ever want to make multiples of a favorite model, like model car parts, or change something from a foam/clay design to a plastic component? These can all be done by resin casting, which is to make a mold of the desired item and then pour plastic resin into that mold.

Polyoxymethylene or POM is a low cost plastic mostly valued for its stable dimensions, durability, and low friction. These characteristics make it possible to manufacture highly complicated and accurate products such as gears, bearings, and mechanical parts. This low cost plastic’s chemical resistance and thermal stability also play a significant role across several industries.

Then place that box around the part in the clay, applying enough pressure to make an indentation or mark in the clay. Remove the box and cut the clay at the marks that were left behind. Once the clay is cut to size, again place the box around the part and now around the cut clay. If done properly, the clay should fit snuggly in the box. Now the box must be secured in place with clay on the outside. Take a chunk of clay and roll it into a long piece, wrap the clay around the base of the box and smooth the clay to the side of the box and the chip board.

Polyethylene is relatively cheaper and easily accessible and thus is one of the most low cost plastics frequently used in injection molding.

Polyamide or more commonly called nylon, is a low cost plastic with fairly good mechanical characteristics, and good abrasion resistance. Thus, nylon is relatively cheaper in cost to qualify it to be used in injection molding. This low cost plastic is widely utilized for the production of automotive and electrical parts, and as a material in producing sports articles.

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To optimize the production cost of plastic materials across various industries, the selection of cost effective and suitable plastic types is crucial. The following seven low-cost plastics are options that manufacturers can consider:

It is not necessary but may help keep the box stable when pouring; the box can be secured again to the chipboard with clay, but with the side that had the clay removed face up. As before, estimate or measure the amount of silicone material needed and proceed as before. Once the second half of the mold has solidified, remove any clay that may be securing the box, and remove the box from the mold. If enough mold release was used, the mold halves should separate easily. Carefully remove the part from the mold, taking care to notice the sprue and air hole components. The mold itself is now ready for casting a part.

Once poured, lightly tap the mold to help move any bubbles that may be stuck, pour a little more mix if the sprue level drops from air release. Let resin harden for time determined by manufacturer. Remove rubber bands and slowly separate mold halves, careful not to break cast part when removing the sprue and runner from the mold. If segments of the mold did not completely fill with plastic resin, then either air was trapped or the mold was squeezed too tight. Try again with light rubberband hold and more tapping.

While it’s easier to write about, it’s actually a little more time-consuming in real life and there are many steps to the process. The desired item must be prepared for the mold, the mold and the resin for the part must be poured, and the final part must be cleaned for best results.

Injection molding is an economical process of producing various kinds of plastic products through the use of molds. However, one must carefully select the type of plastic material that should be used since the costs of the final products depend on the plastic material used. In this article, we will zoom into 7 low cost plastics that are frequently used within an injection molding process.

Polystyrene is one of the low cost plastics and much easier materials in injection molding. In this regard, the product presents adequate fire resistance, good insulation functions, and aesthetic looks, a proper material selection for the undertaking. This low cost plastic is common in the manufacture of disposable cups and plates, shed and carrier materials, and toy parts.

Polyethylene is a commonly low cost plastic in injection molding. It is relatively cheaper, easily gotten from the market and mostly used in the injection molding process. Different types of polyethylene are LDPE, HDPE, LLDPE and each has its own characteristics and uses.